Managing Horses During Drought

Several areas of the country are currently experiencing drought. Abnormally dry conditions pose unique health care and management challenges for horse owners.
Pasture Horses on productive pastures tend to exercise naturally as they graze; this constant moving and foraging is beneficial for their digestive health. When green pasture dwindles, however, horses tend to exercise less and instead wait in the shade for feeding time. These horses are more inclined to have gastrointestinal problems that can lead to colic. Thus, under these conditions I recommend feeding horses a generous amount of a bland (such as long-stem) grass hay to keep them eating and occupied during the day. This is preferable to having them wait around for an occasional rich feeding. When moisture finally returns, it is important to moderate horses' access to rapidly changing pasture, so their systems can readjust to green grass.
Hay Drought conditions also reduce hay supplies, making it difficult for owners to maintain consistent hay diets for their horses. Radically changing feed types increase a horse's risk for health problems, especially colic. If you can't maintain a consistent hay type, source, and quality, gradually reduce the amount of the old batch you feed, mixing it with an increasing amount of the new hay (over three to five days) to ease the transition. When purchasing hay from a new source, always examine it carefully for mold, dust, weeds, blister beetles, and sharp seed awns. While feed concentrates can supplement horses' diets in some cases, they should not replace hay (high fiber or roughage feeds). Hay should be the staple of the equine diet.
Toxic Plants Horses with adequate forage usually avoid eating toxic weeds. During drought conditions, however, when weeds might be the only green plants on pasture, horses are more likely to eat them. The best way to prevent this is to provide more consistent access to good-quality hay. Talk to your vet or local equine extension agent about the toxic plants in your area. You should learn to recognize these and, if possible, remove them from pastures.
Sand Colic Horses tend to ingest more dirt and sand when pastured in drought conditions as they try to graze the last few short shoots and roots. Sand accumulation in the gut is a serious problem that can lead to colic and diarrhea. Reduce sand ingestion by feeding off the ground or feeding in sand-free areas of the pasture. This sometimes requires more than simply using a feeder, as hay usually still falls on the ground and is picked out of the soil. Consider placing rubber mats under feeders or feeding in stalls without sandy floors. Feeding a psyllium product regularly (usually one week per month) can also be beneficial, but it should complement these other management practices--don't rely on it alone. Also, rotate pastures to avoid overgrazing and to help keep drought-stressed grasses alive. This will preserve some ground cover, thus reducing wind and water erosion and soil loss later.
Water A pond or stream that pastured horses use as a water source might dwindle or become stagnant in drought conditions. Monitor water quality in these situations and provide extra fresh water. If horses are housed in large groups, offer plenty of room for watering and feeding because injuries can occur as horses compete for limited watering and feeding areas.
Wind Also take into account wind; blowing dust can irritate eyes and cause respiratory problems. Fly masks provide protection from insects and some can also help protect from intense sunlight and dust. Adequate shelter and clean bedding can also help horses avoid airborne dust.
Disease Certain diseases such as pigeon fever (dryland distemper), vesicular stomatitis, and Rhodococcus equi pneumonia in foals can be more common in dry, hot, and dusty conditions. Know these diseases' clinical signs so you can contact your vet immediately if you see signs develop.
Wildfire Drought also has led to wildfire risks in many areas, especially heavily wooded regions. Horse owners who live in fire-prone areas should prepare for wildfires by having evacuation plans. All horse owners should have (or have easy access to) a serviceable truck and trailer they can use quickly in an emergency.
Work with your veterinarian and be aware of drought-related problems to help maintain your horse's health and welfare during this potentially stressful time.

About the Author

Doug Thal, DVM, Dipl. ABVP

Doug Thal, DVM, Dipl. ABVP, is an equine veterinarian with 18 years experience in clinical practice. Thal Equine (www.ThalEquine.com) is his full-service equine hospital near Santa Fe, N.M.

Alternative Fiber Sources for Horses

Much of the country is experiencing drier than normal conditions this summer, so some horses living on pasture might soon have limited forage choices. With decreased forage growth also comes a decrease in hay production. Therefore, owners might want to familiarize themselves with alternative fiber sources that could be used to supplement their horses' diets if hay becomes scarce in the near future.
No matter the breed or intended use, all horses require fiber in their diets. According to the National Research Council's Nutrient Requirements of Horses (2007, 6th Edition), a large body of evidence suggests that insufficient dietary fiber can lead to several digestive issues (such as colic) and behavioral vices (such as cribbing) in horses. Horses' fiber needs are met most commonly by pasture and hay, but in the absence of these sources, horse owners must find alternative fiber options. Some common alternatives include hay cubes, complete feeds, and fiber byproducts.
Hay cubes are an excellent fiber source for horses, and are generally easily accessible at most feed stores. The two main benefits to using hay cubes versus hay are:

• Hay cubes typically contain less dust than hay, meaning horses are less subject to inhaling particles that could contribute to respiratory disease; and
• Offering hay cubes generally results in less wasted feed compared to hay.

If offered voluntarily, most horses will consume more hay cubes than hay, so owners should measure and monitor their horses' intake. Hay cubes can be fed just like hay, at a 1:1 ratio of the like hay type the horse currently consumes. For example, if a horse consumes five pounds of timothy hay at each feeding, replace that with five pounds of timothy hay cubes and adjust if needed to maintain the animal's proper weight. Hay cubes are heavier in weight, so you'll need to weigh them to ensure the horse is getting the proper amount of forage.
Complete feeds are formulated to provide a large proportion of a horse's nutrient needs, including fiber, and are readily available through most equine feed manufacturers. Complete feeds usually contains more than 16% crude fiber and are designed to be fed in larger amounts compared to a lower fiber grain mix with little to no hay alongside. Thus, provide several small meals throughout the day. Feeding directions are included on all complete feed packages; following label directions is important to ensure horses consume adequate amounts of nutrients, fiber, and other feed components.
Byproduct fiber sources include beet pulp, bran, and grain hulls. Beet pulp, produced by sugar beet processing, is a popular fiber source for horses because of its digestibility and palatability. Studies have shown that a horse's diet can contain up to 55% beet pulp without negative effects. It's important to remember, however, that beet pulp's digestibility is higher than most grass hays, so ensure the horse's diet is balanced properly when making the switch.
Brans, such as rice bran and wheat bran, are another option but are often less desirable due to their high phosphorus concentrations. If feeding bran, ensure the horse is consuming adequate calcium to keep the calcium:phosphorus ration to at least 1:1. Additionally, remember that rice bran contains high fat levels, so it should not be used in overweight or obese horses.
Oat hulls are also high-fiber, but are often dusty and should be blended with water prior to feeding.
Because these fiber byproducts are only fermentable fiber sources, they should be fed alongside hay or another complete fiber source. Thus, these sources should be used to stretch hay rather than replace it.
Take-Home Message
Horse owners should familiarize themselves with alternative fiber sources to either stretch or replace pasture and/or hay that could become scarce as fall and winter approach. Hay cubes, complete feeds, and byproducts are all viable fiber sources and can be beneficial when fed correctly. If questions arise on feeding alternative forage sources to individual horses, contact your veterinarian or equine nutritionist.

About the Author

Kristen M. Janicki, MS, PAS

Kristen M. Janicki, a lifelong horsewoman, was born and raised in the suburbs of Chicago. She received her Bachelor of Science degree in Animal Sciences from the attend the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign and later attended graduate school at the University of Kentucky, studying under Dr. Laurie Lawrence in the area of Equine Nutrition. Kristen began her current position as a performance horse nutritionist for Mars Horsecare, US, Inc., and Buckeye Nutrition, in 2010. Her job entails evaluating and improving the performance of the sport horse through proper nutrition.

Riding and Exercising Broodmares

Some horse owners continue to ride and compete with a mare after she's bred, but is this good or bad for the mare and unborn foal?

 

Breeding mares then riding them or competing them is often a practical option with a young mare in training, and it is done occasionally with mares already showing, combining a show career with being a broodmare. 

 

There are several possible advantages: the in-foal mare does not have heat cycles during competition, meaning she might be better focused on the task at hand. And raising a foal or two while she's young can be a plus if she becomes an outstanding performer and you want offspring to continue her bloodline. Some people like to get two or three foals from a mare to see what she'll produce instead of waiting until she the end of her show career.

 

Here are some anatomy and physiology facts about pregnant mares, and comments from industry professionals to help you decide if riding your pregnant mare is appropriate for your situation.

 

Young Mares

Andrea Guzinski, owner of Cedar Hill Farm in North Carolina, rides hunters, and she often continues to compete on pregnant mares. "In my program, if they are promising and I want to breed them, I breed them at 3 years of age," she said. "At that stage of their training they are not doing heavy work. After they’re bred, I continue working them as I would any 3-year-old, riding three or four times a week as they are learning to jump. They are doing small jumps and going to a lot of small horse shows, getting used to being off the farm. I'm not really showing them so much as just exposing them to all the things they’ll experience at a show."

 

Guzinaki generally raises two foals from a mare by the time she's 6 while just showing the mare lightly. By that time the mare is physically and mentally mature and more ready for serious competition. 

 

"This program works nicely for me because a young mare gets to start her show career while raising a few foals," she explains. 

 

Health Issues

Tia Nelson, DVM, a farrier and veterinarian in Montana, said exercise--even strenuous exercise--is usually not harmful to a mare during the first part of pregnancy. In fact, she said it’s better for the mare to have regular exercise than to stand around and become too fat. 

 

"I feel confident campaigning a mare up until about eight months of pregnancy; it's after that time the fetus is doing most of its growing," said Nelson. She feels a mare that is kept fit will have an easier time delivering her foal.

 

Suzan Phillips, a breeder/trainer near Helena, Mont., has shown a lot of pregnant mares and said the main focus is to make sure they stay in condition. "You don't want to start them out in strenuous work after they are pregnant," she stated. "But if you keep them fit, they do fine. Usually my mares are already in training when they are bred, and I just continue on with them.

 

"A mare being ridden is in better shape to foal," she added. "It's like a pregnant woman; if you are always exercising, there’s no reason to stop just because you are pregnant. A mare should be able to keep doing whatever she's been doing." 

 

It's wise to not push a mare too hard for the first two months of her pregnancies. Early pregnancy loss due to stress can occur.

 

There are caveats to riding a pregnant mare: Don't ride a mare to the point she gets overheated. Too much exertion in hot weather can be a hazard for any horse, especially if humidity is high. If a mare is worked to the point of exhaustion or gets into metabolic problems due to dehydration, this could threaten the fetus. 

 

"Other situations that might put the mare at risk include exerting in extremely smoky conditions, like we have right now in Montana (due to wildfires),” said Nelson "This can be a risk for any horse, pregnant or not."

 

Transportation can be another stress. Robertshaw said he prefers not shipping a mare around the country during her first two months of gestation. "Once she's well along in pregnancy, it's not so risky," he said. "It depends on the mare. If getting into the trailer is something she's at ease with, this is not as much stress as for the mare that’s nervous about traveling."

 

Vaccinations are important. Nelson wants mares to have all necessary vaccinations before they become pregnant to protect against diseases that might threaten pregnancy as well as to have immunity high when traveling to shows and events. 

 

Elizabeth Callahan, DVM, a Maryland breeder who trains and shows event horses, said you need to limit contact with other horses when taking your mare to shows. If you bring her home and she’s been exposed to rhino or equine viral arteritis (EVA), and she’s then turned out with other pregnant mares, you might end up with several abortions.

 

"If you can show from your trailer (rather than putting the mare in a stall next to other horses at a show) and not share water buckets, this is safest," said Callahan. 

 

Even if your horse can't touch another horse through the stall wall, you don't know the health status of the horse in the stall just prior to your mare being there. "Take extra precautions. Don’t use someone else's towel to wipe her face, or let her sniff another horse, or share equipment," she said.

 

How Long Can I Ride?

Many people consider it safe to ride a mare during the first six to eight months of pregnancy, but it's wise to taper off after that. Guzinksi usually stops riding her mares two to three months before foaling. The foal does most of its growing in the last trimester. During that time the mare's abdomen will be growing larger, and if her belly becomes more pendulous, this might interfere with her balance and coordination when doing speed work. At that point she will be less agile, which could be dangerous if she slips.

 

"Her body is changing so quickly that her central nervous system might not have adapted yet to the changes taking place," said Nelson. "When I was pregnant and shoeing horses (the farrier part of her occupation), it didn’t matter much during early pregnancy, but in the last trimester it seemed like every day I was gaining weight and my body and brain hadn't adjusted. I was more clumsy. So I quit shoeing during the latter part of both my pregnancies. It's the same for a mare; she’ll have issues with balance and agility in late pregnancy."

 

How much exercise, or how long to keep riding her, depends on what kind of competition you're doing. Use common sense in what you ask a mare to do, and be aware that her body is changing rapidly in the last trimester. There's nothing wrong with keeping a mare fit all during pregnancy, but hard work that’s very jolting should be tapered off during the last half, advises Nelson.

 

Phillips breeds her mares in mid-March, starts riding them in April, and rides through October. Her show season starts in April/May and goes through October, then the mares are out on pasture. "I never really quit exercising them. Even when I’m not riding they are longed or have some other exercise during winter," said Phillips. Because of that, she said it’s not hard to get them back in shape after they are bred, and riding them through show season coincides with the first six months of pregnancy.

 

Mares doing fast work or jumping might have problems if you continue to compete in the last portion of gestation. Robershaw points out that during the last trimester, the weight of the fetus might cause a uterine torsion if the mare is carrying it low and she’s doing active work, such as jumping. A twist in the cervix and connective support structures might occur if the heavy uterus flips over.

 

Callahan said some mares, especially maiden mares, don't develop much belly and could probably be ridden up until they day they foal and you'd hardly know they are pregnant. 

 

"If a mare has had a foal or two already, however, she's probably going to show her pregnancy quicker," she said. 

"The mare may get to the point at six months that saddle fit is an issue; the girth sits too far forward and the saddle may slip forward onto the withers. Some mares become ungainly, with a change in gait (waddling), and are more awkward when jumping. By six or seven months, you should probably not be jumping a mare, and getting your saddle to fit properly may limit some other competitions. Mares can be safely ridden up until they deliver, as long as the rider is careful, but the size of the mare’s abdomen may limit your choices." 

 

Take-Home Message

The fetus in mares grows very slowly in early and mid-gestation, then the fetus can a pound or more per day in the last trimester. Fit, young mares might be able to compete strenuously for several months of their gestation period, but you and your veterinarian should monitor the mare closely to ensure her health and the health of the unborn foal.

About the Author

Heather Smith Thomas

Heather Smith Thomas ranches with her husband near Salmon, Idaho, raising cattle and a few horses. She has a B.A. in English and history from University of Puget Sound (1966). She has raised and trained horses for 50 years, and has been writing freelance articles and books nearly that long, publishing 20 books and more than 9,000 articles for horse and livestock publications. Some of her books include Understanding Equine Hoof Care, The Horse Conformation Handbook, Care and Management of Horses, Storey's Guide to Raising Horses and Storey's Guide to Training Horses. Besides having her own blog, www.heathersmiththomas.blogspot.com, she writes a biweekly blog at http://insidestorey.blogspot.com that comes out on Tuesdays.

Common Pasture Weeds

http://www.thehorse.com/photos/slideshows/31499/common-pasture-weeds

A Look at Navicular Syndrome in Horses

http://www.thehorse.com/photos/slideshows/35427/a-look-at-navicular-syndrome-in-horses

Normal Mare and Newborn Foal Behavior

Q. My mare is due to foal in a few weeks, and this will be the first foal I’ve raised. Could you tell me what to look for in regards to normal mare and foal behavior? Are there any abnormal behaviors I should watch for?

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A. Congratulations on expecting your first foal! You have plenty of reading to do and questions to ask of your local professionals. But here are some of the things that I feel are most important regarding normal and abnormal mare and foal behavior, focusing on the perinatal period. I can only touch the surface here, and so we can discuss more specific issues another time.
Before your mare delivers, plan to keep a clock handy because time landmarks are important.
As it gets closer to delivery, the most common change in a mare's behavior is increased restlessness over the last week and even more so during the last hour or two. Once her water breaks, the actual delivery of the foal should take place quickly: The rule of thumb is within 30 minutes.
The mare is likely to get up and down before and in the midst of delivering. The foal should present a front foot, then another front foot just a little behind it, and then a nose. Any significant delay in delivery is cause to call your veterinarian if you are not able to provide appropriate moderate assistance to help deliver the foal.
Once the foal is delivered, I use the 1-2-3 guideline: one hour for the foal to stand, two hours for the foal to nurse, and three hours for the mare to pass the placenta. A significant delay in any of these steps means it's time to call your veterinarian.
After delivery, a mare usually looks toward the foal, vocalizes, and licks the foal. But the mare might also be tired and spend time resting, and she might also show some signs of restlessness and discomfort until she passes the placenta. At some point she might also feel hungry and just go eat her hay, alternating between eating and paying close attention to the foal.
The foal should have good muscle tone. He should very soon make his awkward attempts to get in sternal position and move his legs about. He will likely vocalize toward the mare and very early have a suckle reflex. A good suckle reflex means he is extending his tongue and curling it and maybe making suckling noises—if you put your finger there he should curl his tongue around your finger and you should feel a bit of a suction. Foals will sometimes try to suckle on air or on their own legs and, once standing, and wander about and attempt to suckle on the wall. As long as this doesn't become a fixation, it’s normal.
The foal should soon begin trying to stand. Some will just pop right up, but most will flop and drag themselves around the stall for a while until they are stronger and more coordinated.
Once he's up, the foal will begin searching for the udder. Don't be surprised if the mare doesn't just stand perfectly still for this. Sometimes a mare will take a few steps or circle the stall, and some believe this is important to elicit a "following response" from the foal. The mare might nip at the foal and, especially if he's close to the udder, she might also squeal and raise a hind leg and kick out a little. It is really important to recognize these mildly aggressive behaviors by the mare can be completely normal and really won't significantly impede the foal from nursing in a timely fashion. And they are quite distinguishable from the more brutal aggressions we see in mares that reject their foals.
Don't be too surprised if the foal searches or tries and fails to suckle for a while, then either falls or lays down and rests before getting up for another try. Once the foal finds the udder, it might take him a bit to figure out how to latch on the teat. What you should look for is that he curls his tongue around the teat and makes a suckling noise, and you should watch or feel (if you can do so unobtrusively) for boluses of milk going down the esophagus.  As the hours and days go on, you can assess adequate nursing by watching the foal and feeling the udder for variations in distention.
The one- and two-hour guidelines for a foal to stand and nurse are just that. You don't have to be too alarmed if your foal is a little slower, but he should look like he's making progress.
For me, too much human assistance has not seemed overly beneficial. Foals are stronger and more determined than you think to do both the wrong things and the right things as they are figuring out their legs and where the udder is. If I can do a gentle assist or steadying to help him get up and keep near the udder I might. But I really strongly prefer to not interfere at all. If I feel like I need to provide a whole lot of assistance, then there are likely more significant problems that I need to address.
Good luck with your first foal!

 

Budget-Friendly Ways to Green Your Barn

With Stephanie Captein, Langley Environmental Partners Society
Are you looking for economical ways to make your horse facility more environmentally friendly? Here are some inexpensive ways to “green” your barn.
Going green doesn’t have to mean spending a small fortune. There are many budget-conscious ways to change the way you manage your facility so that your barn and property are more eco-friendly. “We just need to recognize that all the little things we can do, really add up to have a big impact,” says Stephanie Captein, Agriculture Program Coordinator with Langley Environmental Partners Society (LEPS) in Langley, BC.
According to Captein, “A starting point for anybody is to write a list of all the inputs and outputs you have at your barn. Inputs would be things like electricity, water, bedding, hay, feed, even medication, and outputs would be things like manure, empty containers, empty feed sacks, baling twine, plastic, and old tack and blankets. Then just apply the simple little rhyme we all learned in school – Reduce, Reuse, Recycle – and see if you can find the practices that are easiest and least expensive to implement, but will really make savings along the way in terms of the environment and, usually, your wallet along the way.”

Reduce

One of the easiest inputs to reduce is electricity. “Install some timers or dimmers in the barn,” suggests Captein. “You can try to switch to fluorescent lighting as opposed to the incandescent. And follow the simple policy – last one out of the barn turns the lights off.

If you have the storage space, buying your hay, feed, and bedding in bulk and having it delivered all at once eliminates the need for multiple trips to and from the feed and supply store. Photo: Holly Burns

Water use is another area in which Captein sees significant waste. “Washing down the stalls, washing horses, filling water buckets – make a mental note of all the times that you use water and look at ways to reduce it,” she says. “By installing gutters and a rain barrel system you can collect a lot of water that you could use for washing the barn or your horses. That goes a long way to reducing your environmental impact. If you’ve got a big trough full of water and it gets scuzzy and you need to change it for the horses, you can use it to water your plants and flowers rather than just pouring it out.”
Bedding is also a material that sees a lot of wastage. Rubber mats, while expensive to install, can save on the amount of bedding you use. Or evaluate your stall cleaning method. “Some people put a lot of bedding down and clean the whole stall out quite frequently,” Captein explains. “Instead, do spot treatments with your pitchfork to take out what’s needed and save the entire clean-out for once a week, depending on what works for you and your barn.”
If you can, buy items like hay, feed, and bedding in bulk. Try to have them delivered at once, if you’ve got the storage space, rather than making multiple trips to the feed and supply store which will increase your fuel use.

Reuse

“See what you’ve got at your barn currently and decide what you need,” advises Captein. Old lumber lying around can be used for various projects such as blocking off a stall or repairing fencing. Empty feed and supplement containers can be used to store grooming supplies or as water buckets. Think outside the box to come up with new uses for old items.
“I find horse people are quite inventive and ingenious with some of the things they come up with,” says Captein. “A big one seems to be baling twine. I’ve seen people make really neat rugs for the barn to wipe your boots on. It looks fancy but it’s nothing more than a simple braid to make a woven mat – really useful. I’ve also seen people use baling twine to replace bucket handles or fence closures.”

Recycle

One of the biggest outputs at any barn is manure. Captein strongly recommends composting manure as the most environmentally friendly management practice. “It’s a great way to reduce your impact because you’re not sending [the manure] to the landfill, you’re not having it trucked around, and then you get to use it in your garden or on your pasture.” Or, she suggests, “You can donate your composted manure to a community garden where it’s seen as a resource, not as a waste. It’s a win-win.”

Manure management is one of the most important ways you can reduce your environmental impact. Composting your manure will keep it out of landfills, eliminate the need for it to be trucked around, and can be used to improve the condition of your garden or pastures. Photo: Robin Duncan Photography

Whenever possible, recycle all empty containers and packaging, and don’t forget about baling twine and/or the plastic wrapping on hay bales. “Get in touch with the waste collection provider from your municipality to see if they’re able to incorporate these into what they do collect,” says Captein. “You could also do a search of recycling companies in your area. There are a number of smaller companies that don’t service entire municipalities but are more specialized to certain commodities like these plastics that are used in the twine and the bale wraps.”
But, she notes, the margin for these companies when it comes to recycling these plastic materials is small. If you work together with horsey neighbours, local equestrian clubs, or a tack store to set up a central depot location where larger volumes of baling twine and bale wraps can be collected, the recycling companies may be more likely to pick up the plastic materials for free.
Be creative when looking for ways to reduce, reuse, and recycle, and remember that even small changes can add up to have a big impact.

Langley Environmental Partners Society (LEPS) is a non-profit, partnership-driven organization founded in 1993 to achieve the mission of “protecting and restoring the natural environment through education, cooperation, and action.”

This article originally appeared in the June 2013 issue of Canadian Horse Journal.

Main photo: CanStockPhoto/Peterfactors

How to Examine an Equine Placenta

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csqz0mni_wY

Equine Spa Day

If you’re just gearing up for the season, riding for hours on end probably isn’t in the cards just yet as both you and your horse get fit. That doesn’t mean you have to cut your barn time short. Spend some quality time with your favorite equine companion by getting him prepped and ready for spring with a spa day! While it’s still too cold in most parts of the country to do a thorough bath, here are some ways to bolster your bond with your horse while helping him look and feel great.

• Groom him deeply, beginning with a curry comb or rubber mitt to raise the dirt from his coat, followed by using a hard brush and flicking motions of your wrist. Finish by going over him with a soft body brush and a rag to get every last speck of dirt and dust from his coat.


• Pay special attention to the areas under his jaw and around his ears, as well as in between his back legs. These areas are prone to irritation and itchiness.


• Use a vacuum if you have one (and your horse is used to it); this tool is great for lifting deep-down dirt and grime.


• Consider hot toweling your horse if you don’t have access to a vacuum to really pull out dirt and dust. To hot towel, you will need a bucket of very warm water. Dip small towels or wash cloths into the water and wring them out completely, then hand rub your horse from head to hoof. You can then dry him off with additional towels and place a cooler on him.


• Pull or trim his mane. It can be easier to do this after a ride, when his pores are open. If you’ve let his mane grow all winter, it might be helpful to pull it in small sections, especially if he doesn’t particularly like having this done. Another option is to use an old clipper blade, which will thin the mane without making it look like it has been cut with scissors.


• Clean your horse’s hooves very well, removing dirt from the grooves in the shoes and from around the clips if he has them. Oil his hooves after all the dirt has been removed.


• Trim his face and legs, paying attention to the longer hairs that grow under the jaw and down the back of his legs.


• Wash and deep condition his tail, if you have access to warm water. Tails can become caked with manure from being under blankets and in mud all winter, causing breakage and thinning.


• Apply a shine enhancer to your horse’s coat, being careful to keep it from where your saddle will sit.


• Pick protruding chestnuts and ergots to create a cleaner-looking leg. If they don’t peel easily, rub some baby oil on them and work on them the next day. The baby oil will soften them so they peel easier.


• Use baby wipes on your horse’s face to remove stubborn stains and lift dirt from his face.


• Scratch the itchy places! Your horse will tell you where feels good—some prime scratching locations include between the front legs, on the withers where the blanket sits and on either side of the tail.


• Massage your horse, paying special attention to the big muscle areas like the haunches and neck. As you run your hands over him, feel for any knots or lumps, then knead these areas to help him relax.


• Shower your horse with treats! A spa day isn’t complete without at least a few treats to satisfy his sweet tooth.

Liked this article? Here are others you'll enjoy:Is Grooming Better Than Treats for Bonding with Your Horse?
10-Step Grooming Makeover
Grooming Guide

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Sarah Coleman has a soft spot for chestnuts with chrome, including her two off-the-track Thoroughbreds that she competes in the hunters. Based in Lexington, Ky., she is the Director of Education and Development for New Vocations Racehorse Adoption Program.

All Breeds Have Arabian Bloodlines

Arabians aren’t everyone’s cup of tea. They have a reputation of being hot, deserved or not depending on the individual. They’re too small for some people and some sports. They have a tendency to jump without considering that they also have to land, so it takes a lot of work to make an Arabian shine in the hunter ring. Take an Arabian into any western ring and you might hear snide remarks about your A-rahb. In fact, ride an Arabian and you’ll probably run into your fair share of ‘haters’ and critics.

But these hardy little horses deserve more respect. Hardy? Yes, they may look delicate, but one place this breeds outshines all others is in long distance riding. Carrying full grown men with all their tack, Arabians consistently cover distances of a hundred miles or more over very challenging terrain within 24 hours. But that’s not the only reason they deserve more respect. Chances are, those making snide remarks about Arabians are sitting on a horse that has some percentage of Arabian blood in its pedigree. The breed itself is the oldest in the world, with the purest bloodlines. A horse that has any other breed in its pedigree is always a partbred, no matter how distant the outcross.

Before Arabians were brought to Europe, horses were either draft-type cold bloods or ponies. It wasn’t until the first Arabians were bred to these native horses, to introduce more refinement, that light horses as we know them came into existence. Since then, almost every light horse breed has been influenced by the Arabian. Most notable is, of course, the Thoroughbred, whose ancestors included the Godolphin and Darley Arabians.

Ask an American Quarter Horse rider if they want to ride your Arabian, and you’ll probably get a look of horror. The Quarter Horse and Arabian may seem like opposites when it comes to temperament, but today’s Quarter Horse has a good sprinkling of Arabian. The ancestors of the modern Quarter Horse were brought by colonists from Europe that would have had Arabian ancestors, and the horses of the first nations people, most notably the Chickasaws, who rode horses descended from the Spanish horses brought by the conquistadors many decades before.

The Thoroughbreds, Quarter Horses, Paints, Appaloosas and other light horses we ride are descendants of the Arabian. Some heavy horses too, have Arabian ancestry. The Percheron, one of North America’s favorite draft horse breeds, is thought to have Arabians in their pedigree. Friesians, a Dutch breed, is thought to have Arabian bloodlines. Anytime a breeder wished to imbue elegance, refinement and hardiness into a breed, the Arabian has been the likeliest choice.

Pony breeds too, have been influenced by the Arabian. Welsh Ponies and Cobs are most likely a combination of native pony breeds and Arabians. New Forest Ponies are descendents if the grandson of the Darely Arabian. Even the diminutive Falabella and the sturdy Dales Ponies have been influenced by the Arabian. Some breeds, like the Trakehner, Oldenburg, and Selle Francais have open studbooks, and continue to allow Arabians to help refine the breed.

So critics, have a little respect. Without the Arabian, most of us wouldn’t have the horses we ride

Tendons and Ligaments

http://www.thehorse.com/free-reports/29999/tendons-and-ligaments

Learn how equine complementary therapies, such as chiropractic and acupuncture, might help your horse's health.

http://www.thehorse.com/ask-the-vet/34723/equine-complementary-therapies-your-questions-answered

Trailer Safety Check

http://www.thehorse.com/videos/30560/trailer-safety-check

4 Winter Warmers for Your Horse

 

During the cooler months of fall, we begin preparations to ensure our horses will be properly cared for during the winter. This includes getting blankets repaired and scotch guarded, and taking a look at diet changes to meet the caloric needs of the season. I also take a look at my herb supplies to make sure I have everything on hand I’ll need to support my horses through the winter.
Cold weather support I have found that senior horses are usually the ones most adversely affected by the arrival of colder weather, along with some younger horses who have not yet gone through their fi rst winter. Both have a harder time regulating their body heat – the seniors because of age and health-related issues (i.e. thyroid or metabolic), and the youngsters because they have not yet learned to regulate their bodies. For these horses, it is particularly important to put some diet changes in place, and this includes incorporating some nice warming herbs.
Hot and cold
The Chinese categorized herbs by their “temperatures”, meaning they divided them into cold, cool, neutral, warm and hot. Cold and cool herbs reduce fevers, neutral herbs balance the effects of other herbs, and warm herbs alleviate chills and warm the meridians and extremities while promoting circulation. Hot herbs can dispel the cold, but the herb most often associated with this action is cayenne; however, it is not advisable to give cayenne to horses on a daily basis. Some will not even entertain eating it.
There are a number of herbs you can make into teas, which you can then pour over buckets of feed when you get into the very cold nights, snow and storms. These are known as warming herbs, and they can help warm a horse from the inside out on cold nights.
TOP FOUR WARMING HERBS
Cinnamon – This spice is a warming agent and also regarded as an antiseptic and digestive tonic. Recent studies have shown that for IR/metabolic horses, cinnamon may help regulate insulin and lower blood sugar. Cinnamon has the as a natural remedy – it helps dry dampness in the body and has the ability to warm people and horses who are always cold and suffering from poor circulation. But for horses, especially metabolically challenged ones, less is more. I would not give more than one teaspoon per day if you are feeding the powder form.
Ginger – This warming herb has long been used for the circulatory and digestive systems. It can improve circulation to all parts of the body, including the extremities, and is also known for its lymph-cleansing properties. The entire root can be used medicinally, and it can be made into a tea, which is my favorite way of using it for my own horses. By grating it coarsely or slicing it thinly, I add a handful to a one-quart mason jar, then steep it in boiling water. When cooled to just warm, I add the entire contents to a bucket of feed. Ginger can also be combined with other warming herbs to make a very fragrant and inviting addition to winter bucket feeds.
Kelp – This is another great herb for the winter months because it is also warming in nature. It contains micronutrients, as well as iodine, that support the thyroid (known to be the master “heater” of the body). The thyroid in horses and humans and body temperature. You only need to feed a small amount – maybe up to a tablespoon per day added to feed. This is not an herb you should free feed.
Liquorice root – Although not technically a warming herb, I like to use licorice root in the winter months because it aids in the production of stomach mucus. This lowers the high acid levels that can lead to stomach disorders including ulcers, and horses love the flavor – it’s great for those that are stalled more during the colder months.
Tea time! My favorite thing to do when it’s very cold is brew up a batch of warming herb tea for my horses (see sidebar). You can get the ingredients for the tea and keep them on hand for the coldest of nights. Your horse will thank you for it!

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Talking to the Animals

A Horse Illustrated staffer gets a visit from an animal communicator

By Leslie Potter | March 11, 2015

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Just before my senior year of college, some of the students at the barn had an animal communicator come out to talk to the horses. There were a few good stories that came out of this experience, but the one that stood out was that of a little Morgan gelding named John. John told the animal communicator that at his old farm, he’d had a chicken. He said he missed his chicken, and asked if he could have one.
Deciding there was nothing to lose, the professor in charge obliged, and soon John had his own chicken named J.C. (for "John’s Chicken”). John seemed thrilled to have that chicken in his life. As a skeptic, I’d like to say that this was an odd and lucky shot in the dark on the communicator’s part. I’ll never know for sure. Unfortunately, J.C. wandered into a neighboring stall one day, and the resident horse did not share John’s affection for fowl. J.C. got trampled, and while he did survive the ordeal, it was decided that he should retire to the safety of a student’s family farm. Poor John was left chickenless once again.
You probably know a few horse owners with similarly entertaining anecdotes about an animal communicator knowing something she just couldn’t possibly have guessed. Although horse people tend to be pragmatic, the desire to know what our horses truly think and feel about their jobs, their lives, and us is pretty strong. When someone suggests throwing a barn party and bringing out a horse psychic, even the most skeptical among us is usually game to try it out, if just for a laugh.
But is there any reality or value to be gained from employing the services of an animal communicator, or is it akin to hiring a magician for your kid’s birthday? It wouldn’t be hard for an observant person to come out, tell a horse owner what she wants to hear, feed off her reactions to vague statements, and put on a pretty good show, no psychic powers necessary. Then there’s the flip side. What about when the psychic tells you something you don’t want to hear?

What Does the Horse Say?
When my riding instructor announced that there would be an animal communicator at the barn’s Christmas party last winter, I was curious to see what it was all about. Latifa Meena, a Louisville-based animal communicator who lists appearances on MTV and Call of the Wild on her résumé, came out to the farm to provide some insights about a few of the animals. While speaking with a friendly old Golden Retriever, she mentioned to his human that he would be "crossing” (dying) within the next year. I didn’t know the dog personally, and I thought I was a complete skeptic, but I found myself quite upset by this. If that were my dog, I thought, I wouldn’t want to know about any crossing. I’d want to remain blissfully ignorant. And sure enough, I found out that he did "cross” a few months later.
I had that in mind when I contacted Latifa this summer to have her chat with my Morgan gelding, Snoopy. He’s still a pretty robust guy, but at 26, he’s slowing down and has some age-related wear and tear. I tried not to focus on that. After all, there are a lot of other things I would like to know about Snoopy. Is he happy with his current job of light hacking, or is he bored? Would he rather be retired completely? And why won’t he ever let anyone catch him in the pasture?
Nevertheless, when Latifa first asked if I had any questions, I went straight to my worries and asked how he was feeling physically. She reported back that he had good days and bad days, and that sometimes his feet hurt. He’d had some issues with hoof soreness in the past, so this wasn’t a surprise. But Snoopy’s question in response was unexpected.
"He’s asking, ‘Why is she asking me that? Do I have a disease?’” Latifa told me. I told her that he didn’t. "He thinks it’s neat that you’re concerned about him like that,” she replied.
And with that endearing remark, I was hooked. I was ready to set aside my skepticism and hear whatever my beloved horse might have to say.
Snoopy is generally a happy guy, it seems. He wanted to know why he had new pasture buddies and some of the old ones had left—a common occurrence at our busy boarding barn. But he reported being happy with his current friends and with everyone at the farm. Then I asked about his habit of evading capture.
"No. 1, it’s pretty fun. It’s a game,” said Latifa, confirming my suspicions. "No. 2, he doesn’t know what the intent is, so he’s kinda like, ‘I’m not sure I want to be caught.’
"He says he doesn’t do that too much with you,” she continued, which is true. "With you, it’s like, ‘Oh, that’s Mom. I can’t wait to see her.’”
Consider my heart melted.
Horse people will often say that horses are happier with a job, so I asked what Snoopy would like to be doing with his golden years.
"He says, ‘I’m retired! I make great yard art,’” Latifa reported. "He’s happy. He doesn’t really need a job, per se. He says you still kind of trail ride a little or farm ride. Is that true?” I told her that it was. "He says, ‘That’s OK. We can still do that.’”
Unlike that Golden Retriever at the Christmas party, who seemed to casually drop the bomb that he’d be crossing soon, Snoopy asked it if was OK to talk about that. I said it was, and braced myself.
"He says he loves you very much,” Latifa told me. "He knows that you’re going to see him through until he leaves. He doesn’t have any intentions of going anywhere at the moment. The way he puts it to me is that when his time comes, he’ll get down and he won’t get back up. You may get a phone call or something that he’s down. ‘Right there, put a needle in,’ he says. ‘Let me cross right then and there. I don’t want any lifesaving [expletive deleted].’
"From his point of view, he doesn’t have a time he’s leaving yet,” said Latifa. "He might be 32. His lifeline is really strong. He’s not bored or anything. ‘Retirement’s cool!’ he says. ‘This is fun.’”
I know what you’re thinking. It wouldn’t be that hard to make all of this up and have it resonate with just about any senior-horse owner. But there was one, "she couldn’t possibly have known that” anecdote I walked away with.
"There’s a smaller red roan female hanging around the farm somewhere,” Latifa said. "He likes her! I’m not sure he gets to be in the pasture with her, but she’s next to him or something. He likes her a lot.”
At a farm populated largely with bay Thoroughbreds, there is a red roan pony who happens to have the stall next to Snoopy’s. But at that moment she was turned out in the mares’ field all the way across the property, out of sight. Lucky guess? Maybe, but you still have to wonder.
Becoming a Communicator
Skeptics are part of the job when you work as an animal communicator. In fact, Latifa started out as one.
"I rode Quarter Horses and competed on the circuit for many years,” she explains. "At one point I had a horse who was having some problems, and somebody in the barn told me, ‘You should have an animal communicator come and talk to your horse!’ And I said, ‘You’re so full of you-know-what!’”
But with nothing to lose, Latifa decided to give it a try. "I found [a communicator] and brought her to the barn, and this lady knew things she could not know,” says Latifa. "She knew stuff about all of the horses, and it just pulled the rug out from underneath me.”

The Dog’s Turn My 4-year-old mixed-breed dog, Brit, was at the barn with me the day Latifa Meena, a Louisville-based animal communicator, came out to talk to my horse, Snoopy. She didn’t want to be left out. Here’s some of what she had to say: I have always spelled her name B-R-I-T, but she spells it with two Ts. She likes visiting the water, but she only wants to go in about ankle-deep (which, in spite of her apparent Lab heritage, is true). She wanted to know about the "changing houses,” and we were, in fact, right in the middle of moving at that time. She wanted to know if her spirit friend, a Jack Russell Terrier named Jack, could come visit her at the new house. Apparently my old house was haunted by a dog and I didn’t know it!

The communicator explained to Latifa that anybody could learn how to communicate with animals, but it took a few years for Latifa to gain the confidence to do it professionally. She had been working as an IT trainer and engineer, traveling to different companies to train their employees on using their networks. She would sometimes walk by an office and see a photo of someone’s pet on the desk, and the animal would start talking to her. So when she found herself unemployed in 2006, she realized she had the opportunity to pursue a new calling.

Speaking Our Language
Latifa often advises people to talk to their animals and says that they will understand.
"Humans deal in a verbal world; we talk to communicate,” she says. "Animals are used to it. They can communicate telepathically with each other. But they’re so used to human interaction being verbal that they understand every word you say. That doesn’t mean they don’t have selective hearing, but they do understand.”
When animals communicate with Latifa, she says their information comes to her in a variety of ways.
"I feel what they feel,” she explains. "They show me pictures. I hear things. I can smell things sometimes. It’s an intuitiveness. It’s just listening and allowing the info to come in so the message becomes as clear as possible.”
Latifa’s personal story is compelling, and as she was "talking” to Snoopy, I realized I was willing to believe everything she was reporting to me, at least in the moment. Am I still a skeptic? Yes, although I’ll admit I now find myself doing some of the things she told me Snoopy wanted me to do: Telling him about what’s going on in my life or letting him know exactly how many days I’ll be away if I need to travel, for example. It can’t hurt, right?
Regardless of what you believe, Latifa’s assessment of the human-animal relationship rings true to anyone who has experienced a bond with a special horse.
"Animals have their own personalities, their own souls, their likes and dislikes, just like humans,” she says. "I find that the animals pick the humans that they need to be with. They come to help us, and they’re very good at it. We don’t give them nearly enough credit.”
Find out more about Latifa Meena at www.animalscantalk.com.
Liked this article? Here are others you'll enjoy:
Life with Horses: Is There a Crystal Ball in Your Barn?
How to Speak Horse
LESLIE POTTER is Senior Associate Web Editor for HorseChannel.com. She can often be found having one-sided conversations with her Morgan, Snoopy, making her co-boarders wonder if she’s lost her mind. Follow her on Twitter: @LeslieInLex.

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This article originally appeared in the October 2014 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

3

Rain Rot, Go Away

Q: My new horse lives in a field with a shelter but prefers to stay out in the rain. Big clumps of hair are falling out along his back due to rain rot. What do you recommend to treat this?
— Tasha Ruth, Pennsylvania
A: Rain rot is the result of a bacterium called Dermatophilus congolensis. It is present on the coat and in the environment all the time, but when excessive humidity, rain or other factors compromise the horse’s skin, infective spores of the bacteria penetrate the epidermis and start to spread. Rain rot has an appearance ranging from a peppering of raised crusts (called "paintbrush lesions”) to solid sheets of scabbing. These lesions occur anywhere moisture wets the skin, particularly on the back, rump, neck and lower legs.
It’s important to treat rain rot in order to help it resolve quickly, as it can be quite painful. If it interferes with the saddle, your horse may need time off from riding until it heals. The sooner the scabs are removed, the sooner the skin can air out and recover. To help the process along, soak the area with an antibacterial scrub, such as diluted chlorhexidine or iodine. Allow the scabs to soften for a few minutes before gently removing them. This is usually painful, so take your time. Continue to treat the area with the antibacterial scrub daily for one week to protect it from further infection while the skin heals. Severe cases may require antibiotic injections from your vet.
Keep rain rot from coming back by regularly cleaning your saddle pads, blankets and brushes. Grooming your horse frequently and keeping him out of the rain will help. If you must blanket him, make sure his coat is clean and that he’s unlikely to sweat under the blanket. A waterproof, breathable rain sheet is your best bet if he likes to stand out in the rain and you can’t keep him in a stall during inclement weather.

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This article originally appeared in the February 2014 issue of Horse Illustrated. Click here to subscribe!

An Introduction to Automatic Waterers

http://www.thehorse.com/articles/35423/an-introduction-to-automatic-waterers

Preparing for a foal: what you need to know

Sara Longworth of Waverley Stud in Warwickshire gives her advice on preparing for your first foal

image: http://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2015/02/foal.jpg

The birth of your first foal is undoubtedly one of the most exiting experiences for any horse owner, but this excitement can also be mixed with anxiety about what to expect and the outside chance that something could go wrong.
Being well prepared, with essential foaling supplies restocked, is key to peace of mind. Sara Longworth at Waverley Stud tells us what needs to be on the checklist.

Flu and tetanus vaccination

One month before foaling — we use an average gestation period of 342 days from the last date of covering for our calculations — our mares have a flu and tetanus vaccination.
This allows some immunity to be passed to the foals, giving them protection for the first few months of life. At least three weeks before the due date we also make an appointment with our vet to unstitch any mares that have had a Caslick procedure — this is essential to prevent the mare from tearing and allow easy exit of the foal.
If you aren’t sure if your mare has a Caslick, then ask your vet to examine her at least three weeks before her due date so that appropriate action can be taken.
If you want to use an internal foal alarm — which we do not — it could be inserted by your vet at the same time.

Worming the mares

Two or three days before the due date — or before, if it looks as though delivery will be early — we worm our mares to help prevent any eggs in the mare’s system from passing to the foal through her milk.
Always check the literature that comes with the wormer to establish that it is safe for use with pregnant mares.
Continued below…

image: http://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2015/02/Aricia-line-mare-e1423228667483.jpg

Breeding: what to look for in the mare

• 8 February, 2015 - 11:55

It's not just the choice of stallion that you have got to get right when planning on breeding or purchasing …Continue reading »

Where to foal your mare

By this time you will also have decided where you are going to foal your mare and where it will be turned out post foaling. We always foal our mares in the stable, but if you decide to foal your mare outside it should be in a small paddock (so that the mare cannot take herself too far away – she will normally go to the most remote and quiet part of the field) and where there is a reliable means of artificial light in case of an emergency, as things can and do go wrong – and most foals are born after dark when it is quiet and peaceful.
Any paddock should be free of obstacles and have secure fencing: post and rail is best, with the bottom rail close enough to the ground to prevent a foal rolling under it and, inadvertently, getting separated from its mother. And of course these safeguards hold true for the field you intend to use for your mare and foal after the birth.
A foaling box must be larger in size than a standard stable and preferably square in shape to allow plenty of room around the mare when she goes down to foal.
It should be free of sharp or projecting objects. We use a thick layer of straw as it helps to absorb birthing fluids, provides a soft landing for wobbly foals, and is non hazardous if the foal tries to eat it – it is amazing how many foals will try to eat the surface they are lying on within an hour or so of being born. However some experts advocate only the minimum of bedding, arguing that it helps the foal get to its feet sooner and aids balance once it is up.

The foaling kit

We set up our foaling kit in a big white Perspex container at the beginning of the season with items that will be required immediately after birth, and some that could be needed in case of emergency. It contains:
• phone numbers for our vet on the lid of the box (all of us have the number in our mobile phones too)
• a plentiful supply of sterile gloves for washing the mare and handling the placenta
• scissors for cutting umbilical tape or tail wrap; or more seriously, in case of an emergency, for dealing with a red bag birth (where the placenta would need to be cut open), or, again in rare cases, for the need to cut the umbilical cord
• canister of oxygen with nose cone, in case of red bag birth (we are also thinking of buying a full resuscitation device just in case a foal has difficulty breathing after birth)
• umbilical tape or clamp, in case the umbilical cord needs tying off immediately after foaling
• antiseptic spray to disinfect the umbilical stump and reduce possibility of bacterial infection
• towels, to dry off and stimulate breathing in the new born foal
• thermometer – for mare and new born foal
• whole foal colostrum in case the mare doesn’t have any or does not produce enough
• foal milk replacer in case the worst happens and the mare is lost
• plastic bottle and rubber teat for feeding a foal
• large container for milking the mare (in case the foal takes a long time to stand and suckle)
• anti-septic spray for the umbilical cord
• enema (sodium phosphate type) to administer to a new born foal in case of meconium impaction
• If you don’t have good artificial light in the stable and in the yard, you will also need a strong torch or head light
In a covered bucket, alongside the foaling kit, we also keep mild liquid soap for washing the udder and genital area of the mare prior to foaling, and an extra long tail bandage to keep the mare’s tail hair out of the way throughout proceedings. A head collar and lead rope always hang outside the stable door.
Most mares cope well with foaling without any help but it is always wise to be prepared, and in the excitement of live foaling, the organising and homework you do now will payoff handsomely.

Read more at http://www.horseandhound.co.uk/features/preparing-for-a-foal-what-you-need-to-know-476023#qmCyM5XZ6H2i5MzX.99

NSAIDs for Horses

Learn how bute, Banamine and other equine pain relievers work, their side effects and more.

By Anna O'Brien, DVM | February 27, 2015

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After a long trail ride, sore muscles or nagging joint pain may prompt us to take an aspirin or another type of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) without much thought. These medications are the standard go-to when it comes to mild aches and pains; for our horses, it’s no different. Phenylbutazone (bute) and flunixin meglumine (Banamine) are the two most common NSAIDs used in horses. It’s important for horse owners to know how these drugs work, their potential side effects, and how to safely use them.
How NSAIDs Work
To understand how NSAIDs such as bute and Banamine work, we first have to understand pain and inflammation. When your horse is injured, the damaged tissue releases many different types of chemicals into the surrounding tissue and blood stream. Some of these chemicals cause inflammation, and others attract white blood cells to fight infection.
One type of chemical that is released at an injury site is called prostaglandin. There are many different kinds of prostaglandins, and they perform a wide range of functions. Some cause tissue swelling, inflammation and pain, while others bring on fever.
However, not all prostaglandins are involved in pain. Many are needed for day-to-day organ function and maintenance; some are required for reproductive purposes.
NSAIDs work by inhibiting the enzymes the body needs to make prostaglandins. These enzymes are called cyclooxygenases. Currently there are three known types: COX-1, COX-2 and COX-3. If your horse isn’t making as many prostaglandins, then pain, fever and inflammation are reduced.
Bute and Banamine are referred to as general COX inhibitors. This means they inhibit all COX enzymes. It has been shown that primarily COX-2 is involved with forming the prostaglandins that produce pain and inflammation, whereas the role of COX-1 is more protective in nature. The COX-1 enzyme is involved in many normal bodily functions; for example, the production of protective gastric mucus. COX-3 has a role in the development of fever at the level of the brain.
Although bute and Banamine are both NSAIDs and work as general COX inhibitors, each drug works best in different situations. Bute is more effective for orthopedic pain, such as with osteoarthritis or ligament and tendon damage. Banamine is beneficial for abdominal pain, such as colic, and fever reduction. This is why Banamine is normally administered to a colicky horse and bute is more commonly used for arthritic horses.
Another NSAID available for horses, firocoxib (trade name Equioxx), is different from bute and Banamine in that it is a selective COX-2 inhibitor. This means it only prevents the production of COX-2, leaving COX-1 alone to continue helping with normal body functions. Like bute, Equioxx is best used for osteoarthritis pain.
Diclofenac (trade name Surpass) is an NSAID formulated for topical use for relief of pain due to osteoarthritis.
Side Effects of NSAIDs
Since bute and Banamine both decrease COX-1 as well as COX-2 and COX-3, there is the potential for the horse to develop gastric ulcers on these medications. Remember that COX-1 is needed for the production of the protective mucus lining of the stomach. Gastric ulcer formation is one of the most common side effects of bute and Banamine, and is primarily seen in cases of prolonged NSAID use. Because firocoxib leaves COX-1 alone, gastric ulcer formation is reduced. Veterinarians frequently choose firocoxib for horses with a history of ulcers.
Decreased blood flow to the kidneys is another side effect of NSAIDs that are administered orally or via injection. In a dehydrated horse, unmonitored use of NSAIDs can lead to destruction of the sensitive cells inside the kidney. This is a very serious condition that needs immediate veterinary care.
When a dehydrated horse is given NSAIDs—for example, in a case of equine influenza with a high fever or a severe colic—your veterinarian will carefully monitor your horse’s kidney function with blood tests. Intravenous fluids are usually administered concurrently to help rehydrate the horse.
High doses of NSAIDs can also cause inflammation of the colon. Called "right dorsal colitis,” this irritation of a particular segment of the large intestine can lead to chronic diarrhea and subsequent loss of nutrients, such as protein. Right dorsal colitis can be difficult to manage medically, with some cases requiring surgical removal of the affected portion of intestine, or even euthanasia.
Safe NSAID Usage
Although the potential side effects of NSAIDs may sound scary, don’t forget that these drugs are extremely beneficial when used responsibly. Helping to reduce pain and fever is important for a horse’s quality of life and can speed up recovery from illness. Once a horse’s fever is brought down through the proper use of an NSAID, he’ll begin to feel better and start eating again.
One of the most important things to remember when giving NSAIDs to your horse is that these are prescription drugs that should be obtained and used under the guidance of your veterinarian. When your vet is familiar with your horse and the particular situation requiring the use of an NSAID, she can best instruct you on how to administer the drug safely.
Both bute and Banamine are available in oral and injectable formulations. Oral administration is best for horse owners, since it doesn’t require the use of needles. Most frequently, bute is offered as a tablet or powder that can easily be mixed in feed or hidden in a treat. Banamine is commonly available in paste form and can be administered like you would give a dewormer. Equioxx also comes in paste form.
Your veterinarian should be there to administer NSAIDs intravenously (IV). This allows the drug to immediately enter the bloodstream and begin working quickly and efficiently. This is important in cases where rapid pain or fever control is needed, and when the horse is not eating, such as with colic.
Bute should never be given as an intramuscular injection (IM). This NSAID is extremely damaging to muscle tissue and can result in necrosis, or tissue death. Only experienced people such as your veterinarian should administer IV bute so as not to get the drug outside of the blood vessel. Injectable Banamine should only be given IV as well. While not as toxic to muscle tissue as bute, IM Banamine injections can result in injection site abscesses or even Clostridial myositis, an extremely dangerous bacterial infection.
Surpass is a specially formulated cream for topical application so that it can be applied directly to the skin over an affected joint. Wear gloves when applying it, and never administer it orally.
When your veterinarian prescribes an NSAID for your horse, let her know if your horse is on any other medications or has recently received steroids. Administering multiple types of NSAIDs at the same time can increase the likelihood of side effects. Using an NSAID at the same time as a steroid, such as dexamethasone or prednisolone, is also not recommended for the same reason.

Before giving your horse an NSAID in an urgent-care situation, call your veterinarian. If she is coming out the same day, she may recommend not giving it until she arrives. The reason for this is to prevent masking a lameness, fever or other symptoms (such as colic) prior to your vet’s physical exam. If prolonged use is warranted, make sure your vet knows your horse’s management routine and habits. For example, if a horse has a history of gastric ulcers, your vet may recommend management changes to help prevent this side effect, or place your horse on ulcer medication.
Ongoing Use
NSAIDs are frequently prescribed for use in osteoarthritis on an as-needed basis for the occasional stiff or "off” day. Make sure you understand dosing in these cases. Additionally, minor chronic aches may be managed at a lower dose. Since NSAIDs are given on a bodyweight basis, be aware that a 1-gram tablet of bute may be appropriate for a Thoroughbred but not for a Shetland pony.
Long-term, low-dose use of an NSAID may be necessary for certain chronic conditions. High doses over the long term, however, can increase the risk of side effects. Talk with your vet to understand what doses are considered high and low for your specific horse.
NSAIDs are some of the most common medications given to horses. From managing chronic lameness to providing relief during an episode of colic, these drugs offer respite when our equine companions are in pain. Understanding the uses and side effects of these drugs can help you safely administer them to ensure that your horse receives the greatest possible benefit.
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ANNA O’BRIEN, DVM, is a large-animal ambulatory veterinarian in central Maryland. Her practice tackles anything equine in nature, from Miniature Horses to zebras at the local zoo, with a few cows, goats, sheep, pigs, llamas, and alpacas thrown in for good measure.

Must Love Dogs...and Horses

In nature, dogs and horses would not be pals. It’s through domestication and humans’ sometimes-unreasonable wishes that they are asked to coexist in today’s barnyards. With effort from the human handler, a dog can learn that horses are not to be chased, stalked or barked at. It’s that effort, though, that so many people struggle with. If you own equines and canines, and are coping with compatibility issues, here are some training tips to help everyone in the barn get along.
A Dog’s First Encounter
When introducing a "green” dog to horses, experts say you need to begin, well, at the beginning. The first between-species meeting is going to set the tone for the relationship.
"Pick a horse that’s dog savvy for the first meeting,” says Pam Dennison, veteran dog trainer and founder of Positive Motivation Dog Training in Belvidere, N.J.
Dennison uses horses that won’t react to a dog that’s barking or behaving nervously. The idea is similar to pairing a green rider with a seasoned horse—at least one of them knows the drill.
If you can do this exercise while the dog is still a puppy, the introduction will probably go much smoother because a puppy has fewer negative behaviors to un-teach.
Introductions of any kind should start with the dog on a leash. Robert DeFranco, board certified companion animal behaviorist with the Association of Companion Animal Behavior Counselors, suggests putting the dog in a Gentle Leader head collar. Using the head collar, DeFranco says you can control the dog "very easily and very gently.”
The last thing you want is for your dog to get hurt or feel pain by means of inhumane restraint. He will associate that pain with meeting the horse, and this will become a negative experience.
Having the dog under your control is essential because "horses are obviously flight animals, unlike a dog that’s a social animal. You’re going to have a dog coming up to a horse faster than a horse will approach the dog,” DeFranco says.
You don’t want the dog approaching too quickly and spooking the horse, as the dog can feed off that energy and kick into predatory mode, so start from a distance first. "Lots of treats, lots of play, lots of petting to pair good associations with the horse,” says Dennison, who is also a certified dog behavior consultant with the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants.
As the dog shows you signs that he’s OK with a horse 30 feet away, slowly get closer. When the dog and horse are finally face to face, let them sniff each other. Dogs base much of their judgment on smell, so they need time to know what to make of this large, looming animal.
Don’t let the dog spend too much time sniffing at first. Dogs will often get scared of something they’re not sure of and start barking or get aggressive. So, let him sniff the horse, then call the dog away, give more treats, praise and play, and go back for another short meeting. If you keep the dog busy, you won’t give him time to get scared.
Throughout the process, Dennison cautions, keep it slow. If there is the slightest sign of fear or aggression from the dog, increase your distance, keep up the positive association, and try again.
If the dog does react negatively, it’s important not to punish him. Yelling and punishment can be confusing to a dog, and he will only associate that with the overall experience. Instead, find opportunities to use positive reinforcement and try to pay close attention to your dog’s attitude so you can stop a negative reaction before it starts.
A Dog with a Past
Not everyone brings a dog home as a puppy. If you are considering getting an adult dog from a shelter, his past is probably a mystery. If horses are an important part of your life, the dog you bring home needs to be compatible with them.
"Before bringing a dog home permanently, I’d want to make sure that dog was good with horses,” Dennison points out. "It would be like if you have kids and you get a shelter dog; you’re not going to get one that’s not good with kids.”
Many shelters will let you take the dog for a trial period. That’s a good time to try the introduction exercise with him.
"Get to know the signs and the expressions of your dog and your horse. If you see a problem, stop right then and try to introduce them slowly,” DeFranco says.
If you’re unsure about fear or aggression signs that you need to watch for, ask for assistance from a trainer, veterinarian or behaviorist.
"We’re usually called in when there’s a problem,” DeFranco continues, but he has also been asked to visit a shelter or work with a family in choosing a dog.
Working with Problem Horses
Sometimes it’s not the dog that needs to be slowly introduced to the horse. If there’s a bad canine experience ingrained in a horse’s brain, he’ll need a careful reintroduction to dogs.
The process is similar to the dog’s first meeting with a horse. You want to be sure the dog you choose for the reintroduction is not going to react to the horse’s nervousness.
Start again with the dog on the leash some distance from the horse. Have someone else working with the horse, by feeding treats, grooming, or doing something else that the horse enjoys. This is called operant conditioning.
DeFranco says the horse is thinking, "When this animal [dog] is around things are good, so I’ll tolerate this animal.”
"I think I’ve learned with my work with horses [that they] learn much faster than dogs do,” Dennison says. "What I’ve also learned with horses, every single one of them, is that you cannot use food exclusively as a reward past the first 15-20 minutes of training because they become pushy around food.”
The dog should only approach as the horse remains relaxed. When they are face to face, it’s as important for the horse to sniff the dog and vice-versa. Keep the dog away from the horse’s back legs, and keep an eye on both animals’ body language to gauge whether the situation is about to turn bad.
"The dog’s temperament is critical,” DeFranco says. At this point, if the horse spooks or has a negative reaction, and then the dog reacts negatively, you have to start all over.
Controlling the Environment
Let’s say you’ve brought home a dog that turns out to not be OK with horses. Or maybe you got a dog as a puppy but did everything wrong, so now you can’t trust the dog around the barn. These things happen. You don’t have to get rid of the dog; you just have to control his environment.
"Dogs are naturally inquisitive and will often chase something that runs,” including horses, DeFranco says.
This might be a predatory behavior, or the dog just might be having fun. Either way, you can use certain types of pasture fence to keep out roaming dogs.
If your dog is only a problem during feeding time, feed the horses in the barn with the doors closed so the dog can’t enter.
If the dog nips at a horse’s heels as you’re leading, keep the dog in the house, in a kennel or on a tie-out line while you’re turning out.
Herding "is a behavior that’s instinctively bred into some dogs, but you can train a dog not to herd the horses through behavior modification,” says Lisa Peterson, long-time horse person and American Kennel Club (AKC) spokesperson. "Give the dog another job at the barn. Make sure the dog has enough activity so that he doesn’t invent behaviors on his own.”
If you board your horses make sure that when you bring your dog to the barn, you’re following barn rules.
"Just because your horse is OK with dogs, you shouldn’t assume that other people’s horses are, too,” Peterson says. "A lot of people love to go to the barn and let their dogs run loose,” she continues. "You really need to supervise the dog to make sure he doesn’t roam, get into a fight with neighboring dogs, or frighten a young horse.”
A little bit of effort on your part can go a long way toward having peace in the barnyard between your horses and dogs.
The AKC website, www.akc.org, is a good resource for information about more than 150 dog breeds. For more dog resources, visit www.dogchannel.com.